Introduction

A well-fitted blouse should feel comfortable and look elegant. However, achieving this perfect fit can be challenging. In this guide, we will explore the most common fitting problems and their solutions.

Problem 1: Tight Armholes

Symptoms:

Difficulty raising arms
Fabric pulling at the underarm
Discomfort when moving

Causes:

Armhole cut too small
Incorrect armhole depth measurement
Not enough ease added

Solutions:

Increase armhole depth by 0.5 to 1 inch
Lower the underarm point
For existing blouses, carefully unpick and add a gusset

Problem 2: Pulling at the Bust

Symptoms:

Horizontal wrinkles across the bust
Buttons straining
Fabric pulling open

Causes:

Bust measurement too small
Not enough ease for bust fullness
Dart placement incorrect

Solutions:

Add 2-3 inches ease to bust measurement
Reposition bust darts
Consider princess seams for larger busts

Problem 3: Gaping Neckline

Symptoms:

Neckline stands away from body
Visible gap when bending
Uncomfortable appearance

Causes:

Neck opening too wide
Shoulder slope incorrect
Back neck too deep

Solutions:

Reduce neckline width
Adjust shoulder seam angle
Add darts at the back neck

Problem 4: Shoulder Seam Falling Off

Symptoms:

Seam sits on arm instead of shoulder
Sleeve hangs awkwardly
Overall poor fit appearance

Causes:

Shoulder measurement too wide
Incorrect shoulder point placement

Solutions:

Reduce shoulder width
Reposition seam to correct point
Adjust sleeve cap accordingly

Problem 5: Back Pulling Up

Symptoms:

Blouse rides up at the back
Hemline uneven
Uncomfortable wearing

Causes:

Back length too short
Posture not accounted for
Sway back not adjusted

Solutions:

Increase back length
Add a sway back adjustment
Ensure measurements taken with natural posture

Problem 6: Wrinkles Under Bust

Symptoms:

Horizontal folds below bust
Excess fabric gathering
Unflattering appearance

Causes:

Waist too loose
Front length too long
Dart ends at wrong point

Solutions:

Take in at waist seams
Shorten front length
Adjust dart length and placement

Prevention Tips

Always take measurements over proper undergarments
Double-check all measurements before cutting
Make a muslin test garment for new customers
Document adjustments for repeat customers
Consider body shape variations

When to Start Over

Sometimes alterations cannot fix major fitting issues. Consider remaking when:

Multiple problems exist simultaneously
Alterations would distort the design
Fabric has been damaged by repeated alterations
Customer expectations cannot be met with fixes

Conclusion

Fitting problems are part of every tailor's journey. The key is to diagnose correctly and apply the right solution. With experience, you will develop an eye for spotting potential issues before they occur.

Use CuttingMaster's precision patterns to minimize fitting issues from the start. Our patterns are calculated with proper ease and proportions built in.